Paris Couture 2013

Ulyana Sergeenko– inspired by orthodox architecture and priests’ vestments. Bell Silhouettes, ruffled collared austerity.

Paris 13 Ulyana Sergeenko

Chanel– Reminding us of all the ways Tweed can be worked, blending tradition and future, new fabrics with period proportions and hairdos and hats with a nod to the Grace Jones


Giambattista Valli– “Flowers and colors are what women want from me,” says Valli. But this show was further inspired by Porcelain.’

Paris 13-Giambattista valli

Armani-Prive– ethereal elegance glides along in his most recent collection Nude, the “pure elegance of what is on the inside”. The pale palette blending in way that the model and her outfit collide seamlessly so you could barely tell where the fabric ended and skin began. Old Hollywood was reborn in sleek silhouettes and an art Deco glow insinuating luxe.

Paris13-Armani Prive

Zuhair Murad-tattoo style embroidery, the signature of his dark sensuality imbued in his designs gothic architecture.  Exquisitely feminine lace beaded gowns and sheer bodysuits.

Paris13 Zuhair Murad

Alexis Mabille– inspired by nineteenth century painter Giovanni Boldini, a sense of light and shadow from brush work. Mabille created this sense of movement through hand painting garments bringing the feminine form to blossom.

Paris13-Alexis Mabille

Christian Dior–  Freedom, varied textures bringing sensibility to couture, choosing to wear what you want in the way you want. This was Simon’s vision, a sense of normality.

Paris13-Christian Dior

Atelier Versace– First off Naomi Campbell opened and closed the show to wolf whistles. This girl still has it. Inspired by a black and white photo of the thirties “Horst and Man Ray. It was a moment about precision, about perfection and lots of work” echoed in the intricate details but with lots of skin alas chez Versace.

Paris13-Atelier Versace

SS 2012 Couture Preview

In this week’s Wall Street Journal they write “couture makes a comback as labels burnish image with unusual details and techniques”.  The Yin and Yan of fashion where couture creations play the balancing act between the high end and mass market. Here are a few snapshots of the Spring Summer 2012 Couture lines taking their own unique risks.

Atelier Versace Haute Couture Spring 2012: Of Corsetry and Lace ~

The presentation intimate, the front row star-studded and from the background sounded classic opera. Dripping in bright colors, corseted metallic gowns, futuristic details glittering with sequins and crystals the clothes focused on the curves of a woman’s body.


Armani Prive Haute Couture Spring 2012: Oscar Buzz Admist Glittering Gowns ~

Metamorphosis  and “the woman who is at first calm and easy and then is drawn out of her own skin” was the theme and Oscar was the buzz. Armani delivered striking a balance between the sweet silliness of the corkscrew headpieces and his simmering creations- the ‘Oceans of organza undulated and glittered like late-night waves’. Reptilian shimmering textures, shades of green, iridescence, draped fronts and second skin sheaths completed the evolution from flora to fauna, water to solid.


Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2012: Nothing But Blue Skies ~

With Stewardess sexy Lagerfeld managed to convey a sense of lightness, casual ease to couture. This lightness was echoed on the runway with a “monochrome rainbow” of blues, blacks, and creams. Structured and clean, dropped waists, puffed sleeves and exaggerated boat necks and subtle embroidery. The evening looks glimmering with crystals, beads, sequins and high shine PVC.


Dior Haute Couture Spring 2012: Back to Its Roots ~

Returning to the classic full skirts, nipped waists it was pure nostalgia with “All the structure of iconic Dior, thanks to lots of fittings, but all of it see-through,” Gaytten explained. There were layers of ultra-femme transparent fabrics- chiffon, organza, gauze, artful folds and just the touch of a modern edge with croc leather and checks.


Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Spring 2012: Pure Fairytale ~

A child’s Haute Couture dream, all fairytale, echoed in the gold leaf interiors of the salon. Opulence displayed in the delicate floral accents flooded with crystals and clusters of beads. Sheer tops, draped tops, raspberry, cream and salmon pink lace, folded knots sprinkled with fairytale touches everywhere the collection had a timeless aspect of a reawakened princess.

Images: Fashionista and Fashionologie